A couple of weeks ago I had the pleasure of experiencing Brad Carter’s culinary delights. I’ve heard loads about Brad and his restaurant over the last few months, excited would definitely be a word I’d used to describe my emotions.
The simple, classy, dark, moody restaurant is inviting and really did set the scene for this special meal. The staff were so friendly and very knowledgeable, especially the sommelier. He suggested a Gewurztaminer from Oregon which was so crisp, light and fresh, and complimented all the dishes. I was very impressed with the wine and a little disappointed I couldn’t have tried more.
You might think £65 for a 6 course lunch menu on a Saturday afternoon is a bit much but as soon as that first dish was placed in front of me there was no question that I had made the right decision. The 6 course menu was preceded by four ‘snacks’ or little plates. I had no idea what to expect when I received the chicken liver cereal. The grains and dried fruit looked very inviting but diving in and scooping up some of the hidden chicken liver parfait was a delight. Light, smooth, intense with flavour and the crispness of the cereals make this a very interesting and satisfying dish. I was equally impressed with the fish in the bright orange sea buckthorn, the house charcuterie served a meaty slice and the green of the kohlrabi gave a very earthy finish to the ‘snacks’.
I do love a bread course wherever I go but the locally sourced flour made great sourdough. To top it all off, the pig dripping was so salty and savoury I couldn’t help but smother it thickly and devour it in seconds.
Pearl barley is not something that I’m keen on but I think Brad and his team might have converted me. The earthy, savoury porridge had a light and soft texture. The wooden spoon really made this dish, I thought I should have been sitting in a forest devouring this little pot.
The locally sourced leek added a fresh green spring twist to the cod dish. The centerpiece was the light, flaky, pearly white cod which was juicy and fresh. I enjoyed the buttermilk that also made the fish taste very creamy. At first I didn’t like the idea of the ash covered potato but this was definitely my favourite element once I had tasted it.
Duck is expected to be juicy and this didn’t disappoint. A thick layer of duck thigh stuffing under the fat and crispy skin made it even better. The salty kick from the aged soy dressing made this very moreish.
This can only be described as a slab of clean, smooth and intense cheese. The over ripened pear add a punch of sweetness to the Worcester blue that wasn’t overpowering at all.
The tangy and fresh bloody red orange which topped this light,smooth and creamy cheesecake was wonderful. I could have had two portions. Blood orange isn’t a popular ingredient and is under rated.
And then it went full circle. This earthy black rice and kombu ice-cream was the perfect way to finish this meal. It was so creamy and salty with only the slight hint of sweetness.
I think of petit fours like a sneaky little additional dessert and this was just that. The smooth richness of this chocolate pot announced the end of the meal in style.
There was a flow to this menu that slightly overlapped flavours or textures. The earthy meaty links of the first few courses and then from cheese to cream. All of the dishes complimented each other and this made the meal, as a whole, stand out instead of individual dishes.
I am so pleased I visited Brad and his amazing team. I won’t to be waiting for a special occasion but the next season to see what delights he’ll plate up then.
Carters of Moseley
Carters of Moseley, 2C Wake Green Road, Birmingham, B13 9EZ